Written by Sarah Curtis-Fawley

The highest average annual snowfall in Colorado. The deepest and hottest natural hot springs in the world. Fascinating ruins of thousand-year old Puebloan civilizations. Pagosa Springs, Colorado may be a place of extremes, but it is also a town of subtle charm that provides the perfect setting for the quintessential western vacation.

My husband and I have journeyed all over the world, and have found that our best experiences are off the beaten tourist track, in towns that most people haven’t heard of and even fewer visit. So when we decided to take an early-summer trip to Colorado, we skipped over the glitzy havens of Vail and Aspen for a little town in the southwest corner of the state: Pagosa Springs.

We approached Pagosa by driving over the 10,800-foot Wolf Creek Pass, where even in June large drifts of snow blanketed the side of the road. The highway was framed by towering Ponderosa pines and Douglas firs, the sky above was a sparkling turquoise, and everywhere we looked were the ruggedly beautiful San Juan mountains. We had chills of excitement anticipating the week ahead - we planned to explore the region by boat, on horseback, by bike, and even in the air!

Early the next morning we were standing on the banks of the San Juan River in full-body dry suits, ready for a white water adventure with Pagosa Outside. As I surveyed the swiftly swirling water, I was a bit apprehensive about climbing into the raft, but everyone in our group, including a second grader and a pair of retirees, had a blast. For the next three hours we shrieked in giddy fear as we paddled and splashed through the class II/III rapids, our guide deftly dodging large rocks and maneuvering us over the Dead Llama Falls.

Horseback riding seemed essential on a trip to the wild west, so one afternoon we saddled up “Rebel” and “Blackie” for a ride into the forest along the Continental Divide. Our guide, Willie, seemed to be America’s answer to Crocodile Dundee with his wide smile, even wider cowboy hat, and tall tales of hunting mountain lions and moose in the mountains. As we reached the highest point of the ride, we were treated to an awesome view over the rugged Rockies. After only two hours on a horse I had begun to daydream about embarking on one of Willie’s seven-day rides into the deep wilderness.

Hopping on a bike is always a fantastic way to explore a new area, so we rented some wheels at Pedal & Power, where friendly shop manager Enrique told us about some of the best local trails. For the next few hours we cruised a small corner of the vast Weminuche Wilderness on the Turkey Creek Trail. We rolled past majestic stands of Aspens, carried our bikes over gently meandering creeks, and filled our lungs with fresh, high-altitude air. On the way back to town, we biked along broad, rolling paths through stunning countryside dotted with stately farms, statuesque thoroughbred horses, and abundant wildflowers in a riot of spring colors.

After all of that exercise, we were ready for some pampering. Relaxation is taken to a whole new level at The Springs Resort in the center of town. These natural hot springs have been famed for their restorative and curative properties for hundreds of years, and the name of the town comes from the Ute Indian word Pah gosa, which means “healing waters.” The resort is built into a hill on the banks of the San Juan River, with 17 hot-spring fed pools of varying temperatures, from a mellow 98 degrees to the “lobster pot” at 114. It is easy to lounge away an afternoon at the springs, watching white water rafters paddle by on the surging river as you lazily soak in the therapeutic waters.

Restored by those amazing springs, the next day we were ready to explore the Chimney Rock archaeological area. Chimney Rock, a short drive from the center of Pagosa, is home to excavated ruins of the ancient ancestors of modern Pueblo Indians. We walked through the 1,000 year old ruins in quiet wonder, wondering what life was like for the people who lived so high above the red desert floor along the ridges of this shale mountain. Some very well-preserved ruins provide intriguing clues about this culture, including the Great Kiva, a large, circular, semi-subterranean chamber possibly used for ritualistic and community activities, as well as shallow depressions in the stone floor that were used to grind corn over hundreds of years.

One of my favorite things to do on vacation is to eat my way through a new town, and with our many daily adventures we were always hungry for some local cuisine. I was lured into the Pagosa Baking Company by the friendly “We trade for rhubarb” sign outside; indeed, the display cases showed off some lovely local rhubarb baked into pies and muffins. We enjoyed the New York Times, great coffee and a huge slice of blueberry walnut cake ($1.60) in the bright sunny bakery. For Mexican fare, head to Kips Grill & Cantina, where you can wash down fiery Baja-style fish tacos ($9.95) with a pint-sized margarita ($4). Coffee-house by day, bistro by night, La Tazza is also a good bet. We feasted on wild salmon ($24) and dry aged buffalo steak ($32) while listening to a local bluegrass band. Finally, you must pull up a bar stool at the Pagosa Brewing Company, where self proclaimed “beervangelist” Tony Simmons brews award-winning beers including a luscious Coconut Porter and the easy-drinking Powder Day IPA.

We’d discovered the delights of Pagosa by boat, bike, foot, and on horseback, but the best view by far was from the air. On a brisk, clear morning we met Jennifer Burke from Wind Wranglers for a spectacular hot air balloon ride. Jennifer, a straight-talkin’ professional mountain biker turned balloon pilot, allowed us to help with the set up of the balloon, and our anticipation built as the rainbow-hued silk balloon filled with air. Soon we hopped into the tiny wicker basket and drifted upward over Pagosa. As Jennifer pointed out all of the local mountain peaks and spoke of her favorite hiking and biking trails, I realized that there was so much more of the region that I would love to explore. After we landed, we toasted the successful flight with champagne, chocolate covered strawberries, and Jennifer’s homemade cookies (see recipe). I raised my glass to Pagosa, and promised to return to discover more of this little-known but abundantly beautiful region.

Pagosa Springs Travel Essentials