Story and Photos by Ann Augunas

Now I know I’ll probably never get to write that great American novel. As it is, I’m having enough trouble trying to put into words all that I experienced just last month on a trip to that grand spot on earth called Ireland, land of saints, scholars and my paternal grandparents.

For my husband and me it was a dream realized; for Alex, the chance to play at least one Irish golf course, for me, a quasi-attempt at personal discovery.

It seems that for many travelers, to think Ireland is to think Dublin. It’s a given the city attracts the lion share of tourists to Ireland, thanks in part, to its vibrant social scene and healthy economy. Home to a third of the country’s 3.8 million residents, the rest spread across the entire land, it can provide a totally different, urban-type experience.

Far to the west, directly across the country from that fair city, in an area that some consider the ‘real’ Ireland, is a region so wildly diverse and incredibly beautiful that the words mystical and magical are often used to describe it. This Irish west seems to be enjoying an influx of its own, again thanks to the economy. It was our destination.

The raw, natural beauty of west coast Ireland is dazzling, its topography startling. One finds lakes and streams, rivulets and bogs; moonscapes, lush landscapes and unexpected mountain ranges; flat land, hilly land and incredibly green pasturelands; and, of course, rocks, millions and millions of rocks! Need you look for something more, wait a wee minute, you’re sure to find it around a bend in the road.

In just 5-days, we covered hundreds of miles of beautiful Irish countryside, most with scenes straight out of paintings. Wild Irish roses, growing profusely over and through garden walls, were everywhere. Palm-like trees called corderlines hugged some of the hillsides as they seemingly dipped toward the sea. Clusters of purple foxglove, gorse and heather, along with a multitude of wildflowers totally unknown to me, were abundant. But I’m getting ahead of myself. (Trying to do justice to all this isn’t easy!)

Arriving at Shannon Airport in County Clare, via Aer Lingus, very early on a June morning, we joined a small group of writers from the US and Canada for the purpose of learning something of the culture and heritage that is Ireland’s. Introductions were made, we boarded our bus and with that we were off on a whirlwind tour. It was an adventure made unforgettable thanks to our terrific bus driver, Liam Long, a true Irish gentleman possessed of an elegant Irish charm, and our tour guide, Will Collins, a brilliant, quick-witted gentleman who brought Irish history to life and kept us constantly entertained with his stories, ditties and gift of blarney.

I should mention here, that even if you’ve been to the west of Ireland before, opting for a tour might prove advantageous as roads can be tricky, sometimes quite long and signage confusing. Come to think of it, I didn’t notice many gas stations around, either.

From the airport we headed straightaway to County Clare’s Bunratty Castle Hotel for a full Irish breakfast then walked a few yards from the Hotel to Bunratty Castle. A superb, Norman-style structure, it was built by the MacNamara’s (my grandmother’s name I might add) in 1425, then passed to the O’Brien’s, serving as their stronghold during the 16th and 17th centuries. Nightly medieval banquets and entertainment take place at the castle according to public demand. Attached to the castle grounds, the Bunratty Folk Park offers a living presentation of urban life as it was lived in Ireland over a century ago. A visit here could take some time as there are dozens of places in which to browse, shop and eat. http://www.heritageisland.com/Bunratty_Castle_and_%20Folk_Park.asp

Next on our list of must-sees were two of the most popular sites in western Ireland. The Burren (rocky place) with its lunar-like landscape is 14 square miles of unusual, rocky terrain. An ancient burial site there dates back to 4,000 – 7,000 BC. Known as Poulnabrone (hole of sorrows) Dolmen, this massive burial marker consists of stone slabs weighing tons leaving one to consider, how did they do that?

The Cliffs of Moher, at 760 feet tall and 5 miles long, are paradise for the birds living along its striated walls, Puffins and Peregrine Falcons among them, but perilous for humans who may get too close to the edge. An attractive, and safe, new Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience, cleverly built into the side of a hill, offers interactive exhibits and interesting displays, including an up-close, virtual reality experience of the Cliffs and the activity of the birds. Lunch at the Long Dock Restaurant is surprisingly good.

After a full first day we were all looking forward to a good night’s sleep and so were happy when we hit the little fishing town of Doolin in County Clare. An over night stay at the Hotel Doolin www.hoteldoolin.ie, a contemporary, boutique hotel with a very fine restaurant where we enjoyed a wonderful meal, was just what we needed.

The next two days gave us the chance to see Ireland from another perspective. A visit to Coole Park in Gort www.coolepark.ie, introduced us, historically, to Lady Augusta Gregory (1852-1932) a patron of many of Ireland’s famous literati, who came to stay at her gracious home. They included George Bernard Shaw, and W.B. Yeats with whom she co-founded the famous Abbey Theatre in 1904. A visit to the garden offers a look at the famous ‘Autograph tree’ where her visitors etched their names onto its trunk.

The opportunity to experience another piece of Irish charm, the one most of us probably have in mind when visualizing Ireland - the thatched cottage - was during a visit to Rathbaun Farm in Ardrahan, County Galway. Here a beautifully maintained farmhouse was the setting for a marvelous old-fashion Irish mid-day meal. Our plates were filled with fresh, thick-cut slices of ham (bacon), spring cabbage and potatoes. For dessert, there was Guinness-soaked cake, freshly made scones and homemade strawberry and rhubarb jams. Everything was cooked, baked and served by a gracious team of women led by Frances, who have done this for years for visitors just as they do for their own families. A visit to the farm after lunch might get you the chance to see its owner, Finton Connolly, sheer a sheep or two. www.RathbaunFarm.com Off then to…

Galway City, an interesting, yet funky, college town. We browsed, shopped and had a pint in a local pub then spent the night in the very lovely Galway Hotel, Galway Bay, one I would recommend. www.galwaybayhotel.net An evening of dinner and spirited entertainment at the nearby Salthill Hotel was surprisingly enjoyable. Ireland certainly holds her own with the rest of the world when it comes to fine dining. Wherever we ate, even during lunch, meals were exceptionally good and no different at Salthill. The entertainment, Trad on the Prom, featured Mairin Fahy & Band, a group of fine Irish performers, most straight from Riverdance, Lord of the Dance and the Chieftains. Mairin, herself, is the featured violinist with Riverdance and The Chieftains.

An early morning scenic drive through Connemara led us to the spectacular Kylemore Abbey which appeared on the scene like an apparition out of a fairy tale. Built as a castle during the late 1800’s, the Abbey, home to the Irish Benedictine Nuns, serves as an international boarding school for young girls. A great lunch with fresh produce from the nun’s own beautiful Gardens and Irish scones for dessert was a treat, indeed!

Surely no visit to Ireland would be complete without a stay in a castle so next stop was at Ballynahinch Castle Hotel & Estate in Connemara. Set on 450 acres of gardens, river and woodland, Ballynahinch is a romantic’s dream, and extremely popular with visitors as the perfect place to celebrate special occasions. We were surprised at how many golfers were around during our visit. This seemed to make Alex happy as he was set to play Connemara Golf Club, a true links-style course. He never did mention his score, come to think of it, but neither did I tell him I caught no fish during my fly-fishing lessons at the castle while he was gone. A fabulous dinner and an equally fine breakfast next morning brought our too-brief but idyllic stay to an end. www.ballynahinch-castle.com

We were now in countdown mode as we left Connemara Airport aboard Aran Air for Inishmore, the largest of the three Aran Islands. The flight lasts about 20 minutes start to finish. An altogether different experience, Inishmore’s chief highlight is Dun Aengus (Dun Aonghasa), an ancient fortification perched 300 feet above the sea at cliffs edge. Try the shops in its little craft village as they afford visitors some good bargains.

For me the highlight was the memorable lunch we had at the Aran Islands Pier House where we spent the night. It’s a fine place to stay; rooms are very nice, its Pub fun and its dining, spot on. I can still see, and taste, the freshest, sweetest Seafood Platter, ever; plump oysters, not a speck of grit in their clear juice, tasty little clams and jumbo shrimp! www.aranislandshotel.com

Last day Limerick, a ‘gritty,’ working man’s town and birthplace of one of my favorite actors, Richard Harris. We settled into the attractive Hilton Limerick, a sleek, contemporary hotel with all the amenities to attract business as well as leisure travelers. www.hilton.com

Nearby, a small but chic restaurant called Brulees was the choice for our final and delicious farewell dinner, a perfect but bittersweet ending to a grand trip.

Early next morning we bid a reluctant goodbye to all the wonderful folks from Ireland who outdid themselves in making this experience so meaningful; Will, Liam, Ellen, Bernard and Joan. Then we and our traveling companions bid a fond farewell to Ireland and took off for various parts of the globe.

In retrospect, I’ve come to the conclusion that there are really two Irelands, the Ireland that exists in reality and the Ireland that exists in my mind. The one cosmopolitan and pragmatic, the other contemplative and romantic. I like them both but for now, I’m reveling in the Ireland of my dreams!

For information on traveling to Ireland contact www.discoverireland.com/westcoast or call 1-800-223-6470. Aer Lingus travels to Shannon Airport via JFK in New York and to Dublin from Philadelphia International. www.aerlingus.com